How camel racing powers northern Kenya's cultural economy
Camel racing in Samburu County's Maralal has grown into an annual fixture where local communities, tourists and stakeholders converge, fusing sport, tradition and commerce into northern Kenya's most distinctive annual event.
The Maralal International Camel Derby is Kenya's most unusual sporting event.
Camels jostle at the starting line in the heart of town, their riders gripping the reins tightly as the animals push and lurch forward.
Crowds line the dusty track, many wearing layers of brightly beaded ethnic jewellery that flash red, blue and yellow in the sun.
Every September, the capital town of Samburu County in northern Kenya hosts three days of camel racing that bring together professional riders, amateurs, and a throng of tourists to witness an event as unique as it is entertaining.
This year's festival, held from September 25 to 28, marked the 32nd edition of the annual derby.
Jointly organised by the Samburu County government, local elders and tourism stakeholders, it has grown from informal seasonal contests in the early 1990s into a major fixture on the region's calendar.
"This is one event that reflects the uniqueness of northern Kenya and serves as an advertisement for the country as a whole," says Jonathan Lelelit, governor of Samburu County.
Competitive edge
The competition is held in two categories over different distances.
Professional riders compete across a 20km course, with the winner taking home 80,000 Kenyan shillings (US $617), the first runners-up getting 60,000 shillings ($463), and the second runners-up receiving 40,000 shillings ($310).
Amateur competitors race over 10km for prizes of 70,000 shillings ($540), 50,000 shillings ($388), and 40,000 shillings ($310) for the first, second and third places, respectively.
Arne Selengubaya has competed in the Maralal derby for more than two decades, and each time feels different.
Fellow racer Emmanuel Labartengat believes what makes the event more than a competition for prizes is the atmosphere. "We love racing our camels, and the income is a bonus. The presence of hordes of tourists adds to the derby's appeal," he tells TRT Afrika.
Beyond the track
The festival showcases more than just the spectacle of camel racing.
Traditional Samburu bead jewellery is one of the derby's attractions, with participants turning out in elaborate necklaces, earrings and headpieces in vibrant reds, blues, yellows and whites. Each pattern represents the wearer's identity, age and social status.
For women, the beadwork represents both artistic expression and economic empowerment.
Rebecca Miano, cabinet secretary for tourism and wildlife, describes the atmosphere as "a sight to behold".
"Everyone who wants to experience adventure, culture and traditions should make their way to Maralal," she says.First-time visitor Charity Beduli came away from the derby impressed by the sights, sounds and hospitality.
"I had the most unforgettable experience riding a camel for the first time in my life," says Charity. "I also got insights into the local culture and traditions. Dancing with the Morans (young men of the community) was fantastic."
Unifying factor
Community leaders and promoters recognised the derby's potential as a tourism value-addition in the early 1990s.
What used to be a traditional seasonal contest restricted to local communities subsequently became a prominent event representing northern Kenya.
"All communities in northern Kenya — the Turkanas, the Pokots, the Boranas, the Somalis, the Rendiles and the Gabras — rear camels. We see that as a unifying factor," explains governor Lelelit.
The derby generates substantial income for the local economy through hospitality, handicraft sales, transport and guide services. It also positions Samburu as a prominent destination for cultural tourism.
Evelyn Lentaano, executive committee member for sports in the Samburu County government, is delighted to see communities associate the success of the derby with local pride.
"When I see visitors, I feel motivated to do better as a proud native of Samburu, Kenya and Africa," Evelyn tells TRT Afrika.
Tickets to the derby are made available through the Samburu County tourism office or authorised partners, with pricing varying for local and international visitors, and between general access and VIP seating.
Some cultural programmes around Maralal remain free, ensuring locals can participate in them alongside tourists.